I walked the fishermen's trail on Rota Vicentina in Portugal

2024-07-24

This summer, I had the luxury of time, and the need to calibrate my nervous system. I knew two things to be true, 1) Walking has always been a calming and helpful activity for me, and 2) I've always had an inexplainable fascination with cliffs. So I looked up coastal walks around Europe.

The one that intrigued me the most was the Rota Vicentina in the south and west coast of Portugal. So I did a bit of research, packed my rucksack, and flew to Faro.

I wrote down my experience every day, primarily for myself to remember and assimilate the experience, and hopefully for anyone else who's planning to walk the same trail.

What you can find here

• General points
• Day by day
  • Day 0: Arrival in Faro
  • Day 1: Lagos to Salema
  • Day 2: Salema to Sagres
  • Day 3: Sagres to Vila do Bispo
  • Day 4: Vila do Bispo to Carrapateira
  • Day 5: Carrapateira to Arrifana
  • Day 6: Arrifana to Aljezur
  • Day 7: Aljezur to Odeceixe
  • Day 8: Odeceixe to Zambujeira do Mar
  • Day 9: Zambujeira do Mar to Almograve
  • Day 10: Almograve to Vila Nova de Milfontes
  • Day 11: Vila Nova de Milfontes to Porto Covo (last day!)
• Final thoughts

General points

Some general points before the day to day accounts:

The daily routine: Everyday, I normally started hiking at 7:30 - 8, to take advantage of the cooler mornings, took a 45-minute lunch break, and reached my destination in the early afternoon. I showered and did my laundry right after I arrived, and usually went out for dinner later in the evening. On some days I cooked dinner for myself. Depending on my mood and who was around, I journaled, rested, talked to people, explored the village, and went to bed at 10 to 11 PM. If I liked my dinner spot, you can find the name and address in the daily accounts.

The season: I walked from July 5 to 16. The trail's website recommends not to walk the trail in July and August, because it is supposedly too hot. That wasn't my experience. It is very hot in the south coast (Faro, Lagos, Salema, and Sagres), but as soon as I started walking on the west coast, the temprature dropped slightly, and there was a lot more wind, and the weather was perfect for hiking. Some of my hosts also confirmed the climate is milder in the west coast (not too cold, not too hot), and the water temperature remains at 16 °C all year round. One told me sometimes in September, the cooler wind from the north is replaced by the hot wind coming from the south / southeast, which makes things challenging for early September walkers.

The direction: The official guide is written from north to south, and all hikers I came across did the same. I however walked from south to north (I wanted to end up in Lisbon.) The advantage is I mostly had the sun behind me. I imagine this would be particularly nice in the winter when the sun is lower, and you don't want to constantly have it in your eyeline.

The route: This trail is very well marked. But I think you do need a map anyway. I downloaded all the .gpx files from the website on my phone, and I had to use it almost everyday. I used OsmAnd for this, which is built on OpenStreetMap as its backbone. Since the .gpx file was stored on my phone and not on the cloud, I could navigate with the app and see my route offline at all times.

The packing list: I had the lightest pack among all the hikers I met (even though none were camping). This is because I absolutely detest carrying a heavy load on my back while walking. It takes away from the experience for me. I have a 22 L hiking backpack, and here is a list of everything I took:

Item	Weight (g)
hat	61
bandana	39
merino wool blend hiking shirt	148
small microfiber towel	105
hiking socks #1	61
hiking socks #2	70
sunglasses (incl. box)	98
camera	286
light pants for sleeping	212
light shoes for evening	337
cards + passport + cash + light wallet	117
e-book reader	213
e-book reader cable	37
phone charger + cable	60
wired in-ear headphones	75
laundry clips 10x	60
sleeping mask	20
camping sheets	314
soap	119
soap box	52
razor	23
sunscreen	39
essential oil as deodorant	33
anti-mosquito essential oil spray	40
nail clipper and nail filer	30
eyebrow tweezers	24
dental floss	23
toothbrush	10
toothpaste	30
hair comb	14
anti-itch cream	38
immune boosting supplement pills + ibuprofen	31
antacids for tummy	33
vaseline (and its container)	36
linseeds (as digestion aid)	68
bandaids and blister patches	26
shampoo	89
conditioner	93
swimsuit	135
linen dress for evening	178
body lotion	52
ear plugs	15
face scrubber	11
hairbands	10
cotton tote bag for groceries, etc.	57
backpack	900
a 1.5 L + a 1 L plastic water bottles	46
notebook	173
camping headlight	85
lightweight T-shirt for sleeping	124
pen	10
total	4960

A couple of notes:

• The stuff you don't see in the list above is the items I wore: lightweight pants, a merino wool blend hiking shirt, sports bra, hiking socks, running shoes, and my phone.

• The only thing I had to restock during the hike was sunscreen.

• One note about laundry clips: most hostels do have laundry clips, but some don't, and many don't have enough. I took these as a safety measure but I used them almost everyday. Especially on the west coast, it gets quite windy and leaving your clothes out to dry without securing them is not an option.

• To the total weight above, you have to add the weight of water and food you may be carrying. I always started my hike with 2.5 L of water, and a combination of couple of eggs, some nuts, and some fruit.

• From the list above, I used everything during the hike, except the camping sheets and (thankfully) the anti-itch cream.

Day by day

Okay, so now for the day to day account:

Day 0: Arrival in Faro

I flew to Faro in the evening, and spent the night.
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Day 1: Lagos to Salema

Train from Faro to Lagos: 7:11
Departure from Lagos: 9:15
Lunch break: 12:11
Arrival: 16:45

• I took the train from Faro to Lagos. You can purchase the ticket at the train station (even early morning). There is also a cafe in the train station which was open (and quite busy) early morning. Check the train timetables and ticket prices here: https://www.cp.pt/passageiros/en

• The only thing about this stage is that it was very hot in July. The sun is above you all. the. time (no trees to provide shade). Renew your sunscreen if you wash your face (I didn't and I got sunburnt). One tip is to make your bandana wet, and have it around your neck - that really does help cool you down.

Accommodation in Salema: Salema eco camp

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Day 2: Salema to Sagres

Departure: 6:59
Lunch break: 11:30
Arrival: 16:30 to 17:00

Okay. This day.

The guide says this is the toughest bit, but it doesn't really say why.
It IS quite tough, but I suppose in different ways for different people:

• There is a lot of going up and down, and both are quite steep. I'm an avid walker, and a modest hiker, and it was pretty challenging for me.

• The real challenge for me was grappling with my fear of heights: The path is quite narrow. On one side you have a steep slope spreading out beneath you, and on the other side, sometimes you have upright rocks, plants or flat field with bushes. This means that sometimes it can feel like you're trapped on a narrow path, and sometimes less so. I have a moderate fear of heights, so I was constantly grappling with the anxiety it induced. If you have debilitating vertigo or fear of heights, I would not hike this stage at all (or at least not alone.) If, like me, you have a moderate fear of heights, I would 1) focus on the next step only, at all times, and not look ahead on the path and speculate how steep THAT is going to be, and 2) lean your body towards the rocks or the plants on your side. That can be a good physical and mental support.

• The views of the coast are unbelievable, and arriving in Sagres was extra rewarding.

• Cafes and stores were not open before 8 am in Salema, and I started my walk hoping for something on the way. A very bad move. There was nothing until my lunch break at 11:30. Don't do what I did.

Food spots along the way: I had lunch at Restaurante Zavial (Praia do Zavial, 8650-281 Vila do Bispo.)

Accommodation in Sagres: Lighthouse hostel. If you stay here, I'd suggest you ask to stay in their new building across the road. You won't be in the main building where the reception, living room and the pool are, so it is significantly quieter. They do provide breakfast if you order. I took a latte the next morning, and had breakfast with the food I had bought the day before.

• There is a big supermarket in Sagres and it's a good place to stock up.

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Day 3: Sagres to Vila do Bispo

Departure: 8:00
Lunch break: 13:00
Arrival: 15:06

• After the mental gymnastics of yesterday, I opted for an easier choice on this stage. After reaching São Vicente, I walked the historical way instead of the fishermen's trail. The historical route goes more inland. It's a little less scenic as you're not always on the coast, but I welcomed the tediousness after yesterday. A pretty easy day.

Food spots along the way: I don't recall any. I had packed my own lunch.

Accommodation in Vila do Bispo: Casa Dias (Sítio das Eiras LOTE 3, 8650-434 Vila do Bispo)

Dinner highlights: I had grilled fish and a piece of Tarte de Alfarroba at Ribeira do Poço (Rua Ribeira do Poço, 11, 8650 Vila do Bispo). The food was delicious and the staff were kind.

• There is a Lidl in Vila do Bispo. However, it was closed on Sunday, which is when I got there. But there is also a big Aldi which is open on Sundays.

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Day 4: Vila do Bispo to Carrapateira

Departure: 8:00
Lunch break: 12:00
Arrival: 13:50

• I had breakfast at a local cafe in Vila do Bispo that opens at 7:30: Restaurante Bar-Café Nascer do Sol (Praça da República 22, 8650-409 Vila do Bispo)
• The first half of this stage is quick and easy. You're walking parellel to or on country roads, and it's pretty flat. It's a nice warm-up to what's coming in the second half.
• The second half has some elevation, and some narrow paths. But the slope next to the path is not as steep as on day 2, and therefore seemed much easier to me.

Food spots along the way: I don't recall any. I had packed my own lunch.
I had my lunch break on the Amado beach, just a couple of kilometers out of Carrapateira. After three days of hiking, this was the first moment I truly felt relaxed, and grateful to be there.

• Carrapateira is small, with one minimarket, a couple of restaurants, and a surf shop. There are two beaches on either side of town: Amado beach is a 3-km walk, but the walk is on a country road and easy, and was my preferred option. There is also Bordeira beach, 2 km to the north but the walk is almost completely on sand dunes, so it takes almost the same amount of time to walk.

• Maybe because of the beaches, or maybe the relaxed energy of the town partially because of all the surfers, I really liked Carrapateira, and decided to stay a second night to rest.

Accommodation in Carrapateira: Pensão das Dunas (Rua da Padaria 9, 8670-230 Carrapateira). I loved this place. It's run by a lovely lady, Agnes, and her son, Ruben. The staff were kind (and mostly women.) They also offer a breakfast buffet for an extra 10 €. I didn't take that option but they were nice enough to boil my two eggs for me, so I can take them for lunch.

Dinner highlights: One of the restaurants in town is Microbar. It's not exactly traditional Portuguese food, and more of a modern cafe you would find in Berlin. I had dinner here twice and loved it both times (Largo do Comércio, Loja 3-4, Aljezur.)

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Day 5: Carrapateira to Arrifana

Departure: 8:00
Lunch break: 12:00
Arrival: 13:50

• From this point onwards on the trail, you'll be walking on sand dunes on and off, starting with the first half of this stage. Spoiler alert: walking on sand dunes is humbling. I kept thinking the seagulls soaring above me are taking pity on the little human struggling to walk with her two silly legs on the sand dunes.

• A lot of this stage was inland and some of it was on the road. Overall an easy walk.

• Arrifana is small but seems be to be a popular destination for surfers. There were a few restaurants with international cuisine, a bakery/cafe that opens at 8 am, and an organic grocery store, all easily accessible from the hostel.

Food spots along the way: Right about midway, there is a guest house with a little snack bar. I took my lunch break here. The name of the guest house is Barranco da Fonte, and the name of the snack bar is Quarenta & Quatro (Monte Da Vinha Cx Postal 1314, 8670-142.)

Accommodation in Arrifana: Endless summer surf house (Vale da Telha, 8670-156 Aljezur). This was the nicest hostel I stayed in. The space was beautifully decorated, and was super clean. Among the guests were a few older ladies, which was a sweet change from the other hostels I had stayed in. The owner, Ludo, is a Swiss guy who lives with his family on the property but in a separate section. He makes coffee every morning for his guests.

Dinner highlights: I had a veggie burger in Sector B Hamburgueria (Vale De Telha, Sector B, Aljezur, Faro, 8670-156 Aljezur C.Postal 286, 8670-156.) I feel like it's always a gamble with veggie burgers, but this one was a winner.

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Day 6: Arrifana to Aljezur

Departure: 8:35
Arrival: 12:45 (I had lunch after arrival)

• I had a slightly later start to the day, because I was delightfully caught up in a conversation with Ludo, my host. He made coffee and we talked about surfing and life.

• I had breakfast at The Bakery (Urbanização Vale da Telha, Sector B, edifício Q, loja B, 8670-156 Aljezur), and also got a veggie muffin to have for my lunch.

• One thing I was a little curious to see in this stage was the Ribat of Arrifana. Only an outline of the ancient fortress remains, and I was surprised that there were no signs explaining what it is. It was built in the 12th century by a Sufi. In addition to protection, it was used for prayer, as a school and as accommodation. It is the only Muslim fortress to have been identified in Portugal. In line with structures like these, since this region of Europe used to be ruled by the Muslims, you'll notice many names are taken from Arabic; Arrifana is from the word arihana, meaning myrtle (a plant grown in the area), and Aljezur is based on the Arabic word for islands.

• A lot of this stage was on the road (next to cars), and a lot of it was on sand. Neither was too pleasant. If I were to do the hike again, I would probably hike the historical route between Arrifana and Aljezur. The historical route in this stage is shorter than the fishermen's trail between the two towns, and could possibly be combined with yesterday's hike.

Accommodation in Aljezur: Amazigh Hostel (Rua da Ladeira nº 5 8670-065 Aljezur). Clean hostel with a well-equipped kitchen. I was the only one staying in a 6-bed dormitory room.

• Aljezur was among the bigger towns I stopped in. There is a large supermarket if you want to stock up for the next day(s).

• This was the first day I felt my excitement and pleasure from the hike starting to dwindle. I was still happy to be walking, but I also kept checking how much there is left to go, and felt frustrated by the cars on the road. To my own surprise, I quietly accepted that this is probably also part of the whole experience. The initial excitement is wearing off, you habituate to the sense of freedom, and somehow focus more on the endpoint rather than the steps you're taking. Sometimes it's a little miserable, maybe a little tedious. But you keep on walking.

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Day 7: Aljezur to Odeceixe

Departure: 7:20
Lunch break: 12:00
Arrival: 15:00 (I had a short swim at Odeceixe beach before walking the last 4 km)

• I had breakfast at the hostel from my own food.

• A good portion of this stage is inland. At times, you're walking on sand.

• About 1/3 of the way, you'll find yourself in Rogil. I was surprised by the number of expats here, and how often I heard English being spoken. I took a break in an organic cafe, and had my first and only matcha latte of the hike. I asked the barista why there's so many Engilsh speakers around. "I guess at first some came, and it slowly attracted the others, and everyone kind of speaks the same language." and he gestured towards the countless ads for yoga, massage and other healing modalities on their notice board.

• Coming out of Aljezur, there are only the red and white marks of the historical way (this happens on and off throughout the trail). Right after Rogil, the historical and fishermen's trail diverge, and I had to check my own map to figure out where I should veer off from the road to continue the fishermen's trail.

• After Odeceixe beach, you'll have to walk another 3-4 km on a pretty busy road to reach the town. I would try to take a taxi here, as walking on the road is not pleasant.

Food spots along the way: There are several options in Rogil. I had packed my own lunch.

Accommodation in Odeceixe: Horta do Vale - Nature House (Rua Barranco do Vale nº 7, 8670-320 Odeceixe)

Dinner highlights: I had my first Feijoada Rica (bean stew with cuttlefish and octopus) at Taberna do Gabão (R. do Gabão 9, 8670-320 Odeceixe). The food was phenomenal and I still think about it sometimes.

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Day 8: Odeceixe to Zambujeira do Mar

Departure: 8:00
Lunch break: 12:00
Arrival: 14:50

• I got my breakfast at the bakery which was open even before 8 am: Padaria de Odeceixe (R. da Botelha 8, 8670-320 Odeceixe)

• The first 4 km of this stage is on the road. I tried to take a taxi based on yesterday's experience, but the only taxi in Odeceixe starts working at 9 am. So, I walked. This road was much quieter than yesterday's though.

• Similar to the last few days, there's quite a bit of walking on sand.

• In this stage, I had to fight my way through quite a bit of shrubbery (at least in July). Right before Carvalhal do Rocha, the schrubs were particularly lush, and they almost hid the trail.

• I think this stage was the second most difficult (with a considerable gap however) after the Salema to Sagres saga. There is the shrubs, the sand, and some narrow paths sprinkled in-between.

Food spots along the way: There is one restaurant in Azenha do Mar: A Azenha do Mar (7630-564 Azenha do Mar), but you'll get there probably too early for lunch if you're walking south to north. I had lunch at Carvalhal beach bar: Carvalhal Beach Nature (Praia do Carvalhal Brejão SN, 7630-569).

• I really liked Zambujeira. The town is small but lively. I met some lovely people at the hostel, and the beach is just a few steps down from the village. So even after a long day of walking, you'll have enough stamina to walk down and take a dip in the ocean.

• There are several small markets and larger supermarket to stock up here.

Accommodation in Zambujeira: Hakuna Matata Hostel (R. Dr.Jaures 1B, 7630-174 Zambujeira do Mar). The hostel is simple but it's clean and the kitchen is well-equipped. The staff were helpful.

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Day 9: Zambujeira do Mar to Almograve

Departure: 8:00
Lunch break: 12:00
Arrival: 15:05

• This was a Sunday. I got breakfast from a cafe: Doce Tentaçāo (R. da Palmeira 36, 7630-174 Zambujeira do Mar). But I also spotted a bakery that was open early morning on Sunday (even though it is not supposed to be based on google maps): Padaria Augusto Ferreira & Filhos (R. da Padaria 15, 7630-174 Zambujeira do Mar)
• The first half of this stage, up to Cavaleiro, is a beautiful stroll along the coast. You only ascend once, on stairs, and there is a wide path guiding you along the cliffs.
• The second half is more walking on sand.

Food spots along the way: I took my lunch break at a snack bar in Cavaleiro: Adélia (R. Do Comercio 1, 7630-174). It was open on a Sunday.

Accommodation in Almograve: Almograve beach hostel (Rua do Brejo Longo nº8, 7630-017 Almograve). Very clean and quiet. I was the only guest in a 4-bed dorm room.

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Day 10: Almograve to Vila Nova de Milfontes

Departure: 8:20
Lunch break: 12:45
Arrival: 13:30

• It was drizzling in the morning. Not enough to deter me from starting my hike early, but certainly enough to soak my pants.

• This stage also involved contending with overgrown schrubs, and with the morning rain, it was like going through a car wash. I was all soaked and not in the best mood afterwards.

• The walk itself was a fairly short one, and the main challenge was walking on sand here and there.

• I had planned to take the ferry across the river, and shave off the last 4 km from the route. But for the life of me I could not locate a ferry that was working in my direction (south to north). I could see ferries coming from the other side, but I couldn't find where they stopped on my side of the river. So, I walked (you can see by now that me wanting to shorten my route and failing to do so became a pattern). It wasn't too bad.

Food spots along the way: I don't recall any. I had packed my own lunch.

Accommodation in Vila Nova de Milfontes: Mute Hostel (Rua dos Carris 9, Vila Nova de Milfontes, Beja PT, 7645-242). Comfortable beds, well-equipped kitchen. They do not have laundry clips, or a sun-facing spot to dry your clothes. I hung them out on the rooftop, and my laundy clips were particulary useful on this occasion.

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Day 11: Vila Nova de Milfontes to Porto Covo (last day!)

Departure: 8:35
Lunch break: 13:05
Arrival: 14:35

• The guide, and everyone I met along the way, warned me that this portion is exhausting due to the relentless sandy trail.

• It is true that this was the sandiest stage. But to reassure you, the first 3-4 km and the last 1.5 km are on a country road or rocks (easy). Even in between, the sand is interspersed with rocky surfaces so it's not as constant, and you can catch a break.

• The other thing I noticed was the sand depth was more shallow compared to other stages, and the sand grains were larger. So overall you have more support against your foot sinking in the sand. (I never thought I would anlayse sand characteristics this much but here we are.)

• There were a few moments that I had to contend with my fear of heights on this stage, but very briefly.

Food spots along the way: None. I had packed my own lunch. You should too.

• I had a few hours before catching a bus to Lisbon from Porto Covo. If you find yourself in a similar situation, I recommend going to Mute hostel in Porto Covo. They have a cafe, an air-conditioned lounge area, with a beautiful view of the ocean.

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Final thoughts

The thing about walking, is that it is really slow. But it's at the exact right speed for you to absorb everything around you. Somehow, after a few days on the trail, it seemed like my internal world matched its pace to the slow pace of my surroundings. When I got on the bus to Lisbon, it occured to me that I haven't been on or in a vehicle since I landed in Portugal. I became so acutely aware of how fast the bus was moving, and it somehow marked the end of the experience for me. It was bittersweet.

Along the same lines, my perception of time was different. After 5 days of walking, I felt like I've been walking for weeks. Or I would walk and walk on any given day, check the time, and it had only been an hour. I was in Portugal for a total of three weeks, and it felt like I've been away for months. Now that I am back home, days seem to slip through my fingers again. I run a couple of errands, and it's suddenly 5 pm. I don't know - there's something to be said about the contrast between how I experienced life when I was walking out there (much slower), and now. You don't feel like life is "just passing you by" when you're out there.

When I arrived in Lisbon, I could feel the magic of a summer night in a big city. People were out and about, and there was so much to look at. I was navigating the metro system in a new city with ease, but at the same time, I felt like an alien that had been suddenly transplanted there. As if I was acting in a movie and this is the "big city" scene. Something had definitely shifted in favor of stillness in me.

This was my first thru-hike. I'm already anxious and excited to plan the next.

Sources:

1. Rota Vicentina website: You can download all the .gpx files here.
2. Icons downloaded from OpenMoji; credits to Jose Avila and Laura Schießer
3. I used OsmAnd application to navigate.