How to draft a dress similar to Quartz from closet core patterns from Athina top from Tessuti patterns

2026-08-31

I like the simplicity and the silouette of the Quartz dress from closet core patterns.

I decided to draft the pattern myself because a. I don’t have access to this particular pattern from closet core (it is only available if you buy an annual subscription), and b. I like the challenge of making something out of something else guided only by looking and analysing the garment.

I started from the Athina top from Tessuti patterns. This is a free pattern, and I had already made the top in size S, and liked it. Since both Quartz and Athina have cut on sleeves, I figured the Athina is a good base to start from.

I made a toile from old bedsheets, with these modifications to the Athina:

1. Quartz has much wider sleeves that the Athina. To achieve a similar silouette, I traced the XS size for the bust and waist from the Athina, and the XL size for the cut-on sleeve.
2. I elongated the cut on sleeves by a couple of inches to reach just below my elbow. I also checked that this wouldn’t feel too tight when bending my elbow.
3. The neckline of Athina is quite wide. It is a nice feature but bra straps might show (if you wear one). I brought in the neckline in the back and the front by 3/4 inch. I checked that the shoulder seams measures the same in the front and the back.
4. By comparing the center back (CB) length in the finished garment measurements in the two patterns, I elongated the pattern Athina pattern so that the CB is the same length as the Quartz in view A (the longer dress version).
5. I had to add two pleats in the front pattern. To decide the exact length and position of the pleats, I played around with the pleats in the toile until they looked good to me, and looked closest to the quartz dress pictures. This was the most time consuming part. In the end the pleats are positioned exactly at my natural waist, and they are 1.25 inches long.
6. I added side seam pockets. I used the pocket pattern from another project.
7. I added ties. This was the simplest addition, but I struggled with sewing ties with a slanted edge as seen in the Quartz dress. Then, I found guidance in the Elodie dress sewalong video from sewing therapy youtube channel.
8. I added a center back seam.

I bought some cupro viscose, and made the dress, and here is what it looks like:

I am happy with the final result. And I’d consider the pattern hacking an overall success; specially considering that this my first time.

I finished the neckline with a facing, but you sorta can see it. Maybe next time with such a fabric I should finish the neckline with bias binding (?)

This was also my first time sewing with cupro, and I won’t lie, it was a pain.
I love the hand of the fabric, but it truly has a mind of its own during cutting and sewing. I realized the only thing that helps me sew neatly, was to hand-baste every seam in place, and only then take it to the machine. I did it in the end, but Cupro and I will be taking a break from each other until I am a braver (and more proficient) sewist.

Email me if you have specific questions about the process.

Resources for this project:
1. The quartz dress from closet core patterns
2. The Athina top from Tessuti patterns
3. The Elodie wrap dress sewalong from sewing therapy
4. Fabric I used: Cupro: 58%, Viscose : 42%, Weight = 115 g/m2